Dining at hot-shot chef Jean-François Piège's casual bistro is like attending a private party: the galley-style open kitchen adjoining the 20 seats (online reservations open just 15 days in advance) is part of the dining-room decor, putting customers at the front and centre of the culinary action. Light, luscious dishes range from tomato gazpacho with pea sorbet to cabbage leaves with smoked herring and chestnuts. Scallops are cooked on the shell on a flagstone-size rock at diners' tables; innovative desserts include caramelised banana with parsley ice cream or rum-marinated butternut squash.