Beneath an original glass-covered ceiling, this marble-walled (wine cellar) is a delicious flashback to 1880s Paris. With a stock of 400-odd wines and an exquisite array of France's finest gourmet goods, it is a delightful spot for an early-evening (predinner drink) accompanied by tapas-style dishes (smoked-trout terrine, goat's cheese and olives, black-pudding-topped toast) or a fully-fledged meal. Reservations essential. If you fail to snag a table, try its big sister nearby, .