Deserting their previous workplace, Les Déserteurs' chef Daniel Baratier and sommelier Alexandre Céret have combined their talents here at their own premises. In a contemporary space with high blonde oak tables, grey-painted walls and open kitchen, they serve exquisitely presented multicourse (no à la carte) with an emphasis on market-sourced vegetables, complemented by small-scale, pan-European wines. Dishes change daily but might include smoked asparagus with a soft egg yolk in wild garlic sauce or roasted snails with a plankton reduction, followed by maple syrup-filled choux pastry with caramelised almonds.