Grandly restored, the roomy interior of this imposing former Victorian gin palace soaks up pretty much any hubbub thrown at it, with ample elbow space and a setting of gorgeous skylights and period details. The menu is a gastronomic triumph, wine-lovers are well supplied and the walled herb garden at the rear is a choice setting for one of the gin-infused cocktails. Troubadours can take part in open-mic night on Tuesdays, from 8pm, with a free tipple thrown in.