Eric Lévy's 15-seat premises is effectively a clandestine supper club where you can watch the chef prepare daily changing dishes (raw mackerel with yuzu and lemon confit; prime fillet with black radish) using mostly organic premium produce in his open kitchen. Dinner kicks off at a fixed time (8.30pm Tuesday to Thursday, 6.30pm and 9pm Friday and Saturday); reservations essential weekends. A sensational meal of several courses climaxes with dessert – always two of them, one fruity and the other creamy. Expect less courses at the shorter, 6.30pm sitting (€35).